본문 바로가기

암벽 기초 2주차 암벽교실 (10/10)

2020.10.04 22:23

지촌 조회 수:350

10월 3일 1주차 암벽교실에 이어 10월10일 2주차 암벽교실을 이어갑니다.

 

2주차 교육 참가하시기 전에, 1주차 교육의 매듭법을 반복 복습하여 주시기 바랍니다.

2주차 교육의 효율을 높히기 위해, 첨부한 영상을 수회 반복 시청하여 주시기 바랍니다.

 

교육일정

2주차: 10/10(토) 오전 10시 ~ 5시: 매듭법, 확보법, 후등/선등 빌레이, 하강, 안자일렌

등반기술 (슬랩, 침니, 크랙)

 

 

교육장

Mount Diablo State Park, Rock city area (entrance fee $10), 교육장이 주차장에서 보도로 1분거리에 위치합니다.

 

교육장 찾아오는 길:

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mt+Diablo+Scenic+Blvd,+Danville,+CA+94506/@37.8500154,-121.936022,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808ff470ef53284f:0xfc200c43658c8c0d!8m2!3d37.8500431!4d-121.933845?hl=en

 

 개인암벽장비준비물

하네스, 하강기 (ATC xp, 리버소 등), 데이지 체인, 프르지크 매듭용 (5미리 코드 120cm 이상), 잠금비너 2개, 오형 비너 2개, 암벽화, 쵸크통, 헬멧, 하강용 장갑

 

 개인준비물

교육장소에서 앉을 수 있도록 매트리스, 의자 등등

개인 점심 및 간식, 물, 보온 자켓 등.

 

공동장비

막슬링, 자일 20m anchor 용

자일 60m 3동 (지촌, 펩님, 소암님)

쾩드로 20개 이상, 너트 셋, 캠 1 set,

  

참가자격 및 방법

정회원을 원칙으로 하며, 그 외 분들은 개인적으로 연락을 주시기 바랍니다.

참가신청은 덧글로 참가신청해주세요.

 

협조사항

이번 교육일정은 개인에 의해 진행되는 것이며, 산악회의 활동과는 무관함을 밝힙니다. 

코로나 안전수칙을 철저히 시켜주세요.

교육중 마스크 착용

등반과 교육 중에 일어나는 모든 사고는 개인의 책임입니다.

본 암벽교실에 참여하시는 분은, 등반과 교육 중에 일어나는 모든 사고 및 책임은 참가자 각자 자신이 부담하는 면책 서약을 한 것으로 간주합니다.  

 

 

'산행정보'게시판에 소스 임베드가 안되어, 이곳에 정보 첨부합니다. 

 

=======================2 주차 영상==============

1. top-roping belay 

 

 

클릭!!! (빌레이 방법)

 

2. leading belay

 

 

클릭!!! 리딩빌레이 방법

 

3. Rappel

 

(1) Advanced Rappel

 

 

(2) multi-pitch Rappeling 

 

 

4. 자일 사리기

 

 

5. 후등빌레이

 

 

 

 

=======================1 주차 영상==============

1. 필수 암벽 매듭법

 

(1)되감기 8자매듭

 

(2) 로프연결8자매듭

 

(3) 고리 8자매듭

 

(4) 테이프 매듭

 

(4) 뭔터히치

 

(5) 프루지크 매듭

 

 

2. 하네스 착용법

 

3. 안전 하강법 (오토블럭 백업)

 

4 ) 등반신호 (Climbing Signal)

 

등반신호

 

누가->누구에게

 

의 미

 

출 발 ?

 

등반자->확보자

 

등반준비가 다 되었다출발해도 좋은가? Climbing?

 

출 발 !

 

확보자->등반자

 

준비됐다출발해도 좋다. Belay on / Climb

 

(확보)완료

 

등반자->확보자

 

등반을 끝내고 확보를 했다너는 더이상 나의 확보를 안봐도 좋다. Belay off

 

(확보)완료

 

확보자->등반자

 

좋다더이상 너의 확보를 보지 않겠다. Ok! / Belay Off

 

대 기

 

확보자->등반자

 

아직 확보준비가 안됐다기다려라. Don't Climb / Stand by

 

(당 겨

 

등반자->확보자

 

로프가 늘어졌다당겨라. Tension / Up Rope / Watch Me

 

(늦 춰

 

등반자->확보자

 

로프를 늦춰라. Slack

 

낙 석

 

 

 

(기타 위험한것)이 떨어지니 피하시오 Rock / Ice

 

줄내려갑니다

 

 

 

로프를 밑으로 던지니 조심하시오. Rope

 

 

 

Communication for Climbing

The following are standard commands between climber and belayer, from the beginning to the end of a pitch. This example involves a female belayer and a male climber.

Climber: That's me! The belayer above is taking in all the slack rope before putting it into her belay device. The climber calls this when he is tugged by the rope from above, indicating that there is no more rope to take in.

Belayer: Belay on! The belayer is anchored in and has the rope set up through her belay device. She calls this command to let the climber know she's ready to belay.

Climber: Slack! The climber needs extra rope in order to make the first move or to finish taking apart his belay anchor.

Climber: Up rope! The climber no longer needs the slack in the rope. Asks belayer to take it in. (This can be used at any point in the climb to signal to the belayer to take up slack.)

Climber: Climbing! The climber signals that he is ready to start climbing.

Belayer: Climb on! or Climb! The belayer again signals she is ready for the climber.

Climber: Watch me! The climber is making a move in which he might fall. Asking the belayer to be ready to catch him.

Climber: Tension! Same as above.

Climber: Falling! The climber is falling and putting sudden stress on the rope. Belayer should have the rope locked off and be braced for any shock.

Belayer: Halfway! The belayer lets the climber know that he has half the rope's length left to use.

Belayer: Feet-three-oh! four-oh, etc. (30 or 40 feet of rope left.) The belayer lets climber know how many feet of rope are left for him to use.

Climber: Off belay! The climber is tied in to the rock with a personal anchor and no longer needs the belayer.

Belayer: Belay off! The belayer has taken the rope out of the belay device and is no longer watching the climber.

Other situations:

Climber (rappeller): On rappel! Lets people below know to get out of the way of loose rock and to be ready to grab the end of the rope if necessary to stop the rappeller.

Rope! Anyone at the top of a cliff calls this loudly after looking for a clear space below to throw the rope for a rappel or to send the top rope back down.

Rock! Anyone calls this loudly and repeatedly when rock is falling until everyone is out of the way.

Take! Used in climbing gyms by the climber at the top of a route, it asks the belayer to take the climber's weight on the rope and lower him down. Take is not used in traditional climbing since the climber is not lowered, but rather expected to anchor in before being taken off the belay.

At times you'll even be out of hearing range of your climbing partner. Wind, rushing streams and even other climbers in the area can make verbal communication difficult or sometimes impossible.

  • Use names to avoid confusion when more than one team is within earshot. For example, "John, on belay!" or "Anne, up rope!"
  • Agree on rope signals when voices can't be heard. Some climbing partners have a system of tugs on the rope to signal their intentions. These are sometimes hard to feel on long routes and aren't always totally reliable.
  • Use 2-way radios for clear communication on long routes or very windy conditions when you can't hear each other. They can be particularly useful in emergency situations when a lot of information needs to be conveyed back and forth.
  • Most importantly, decide on a system with your climbing partner before you leave the ground!